Major setback today (electrical short).

[ulrichd]

I was coming along so well with this car (70T). Just had a few projects left then I let the pos terminal of my battery accidently touch the chassis and it sparked. Stupid I know, but there it is.

I have checked the fuses and they are all ok. I found no charred wires anywhere. Here's situation:
- Headlights work (hi/low)
- Blinkers work
- parking lights out on passenger side
- Brake lights work
- License plate lights are out
- Gas gauge/oil level combo gage pegs when I turn the lights on.
- Gauges are lit except for the above mentioned combo gauge

Could have been worse. Any advice on how to start? Electrical issues are not my strong suit (obviously).

Ulrich

[mobius911]

Don't worry. I doubt there's anyone who has worked on these who hasn't done the same thing. I know I have! The short will go directly from the positive terminal to the grounded negative terminal. It shouldn't go through any other circuits and therefore should not cause the failures you indicate. Are you positive those things were working before the arcage/sparkage?

Start with the fuses (easiest), then check the specific light bulbs. If the bulbs work (can be tested by applying 12 volts, or swap bulbs in the case of the parking lights), then you have to start doing the circuit tracing thing using a multimeter.

Good luck, check back with results of initial inspections.

Jeff

[edmayo]

Although I can't figure how that would have effected lights and combo gauge, none the less start by turning on the ignition and the right side lights, using a test light see if you have power on BOTH sides of the fuses that control those circuits. If you have power on both sides of the light fuses take out the effected bulbs and see if you have power on the brass contacts in the bulb socket. Test the light bulbs with an ohm meter, or exchange them with the working side to see if the bulbs are good. Pull out the combo gauge and see if you have power at the + terminal on the back of the gauge, run a temporary jumper wire to ground from the back of the gauge to make sure ground isn't a problem. By the way in case you have never pulled the gauges, they just pull out from the front of the dash, no tools required. If you have power at the back of the gauge use the test light to see if you have power at the oil level sender itself. The oil level gauge needle will go full travel in one direction with no power, and full in opposite direction with power and no ground. You need to see what you're missing.