Who's got the lowdown on acquiring Nadella needle bearings and journals?
Thanks for any help and advice.
Ralfy
Who's got the lowdown on acquiring Nadella needle bearings and journals?
Thanks for any help and advice.
Ralfy
[QUOTE=Ralfy;775327]Who's got the lowdown on acquiring Nadella needle bearings and journals?
Thanks for any help and advice.
Best bet is to replace the outer U-joint with a Ford U-joint, containing a grease fitting. It requires a bit of machining, but you now have a Nadella which you can lube periodically.
There is also a modern which incorporates U-jounts on each end and a spline shaft between, to accommodate in/out, which is probably the best solution.
I have one of each on my '67 -- actually had the inner one (the hand-clasp one) break one time.
[QUOTE=Orval_F;775439]What do you mean with U-joints? Do you have pics?
I am just inquiring who can do this in The Netherlands, Belgium or Nordrhein-Westpahlia (Germany). Of all my axles (5) the crosslink is worn-out, the complex joints close to the gearbox are all OK. Shops claim they could not do that complex part. Found one shop sofar who can do the crosslink it but costs 190€ per axle........
Just heard it yesterday and I do not know which manufacture crosslink they use. Will check next week.
member 2971 Jacques
911 March 1965
912 April 1965
911 May 1965
964 RS clone (one of many)
964 Targa original Dutch police car (one of 45)
964 Turbo 3.6 (one of 1450)
993 S Vesuvio (one of 250)
[QUOTE=pss;775500]In the US, "U-joints" are Universal Joints, what you refer to as "cross-link." The biggest problem with Nadellas is that the lubrication in these joints dries out and has no provision for re-lubrication. American U-joints usua;;y have a grease fitting in the center, into which you occasionally pump a squirt or two of molybdenum grease. Any competent machine shop can remove the Navels U-joints and machine an internal face on the insides of the outer parts. The new joints are then pressed in and held in place with snap rings.
I can take pictures of one of mine tomorrow and post it here, possibly including the Ford Cleveland part number. They cost only a few dollars. I have had the inner parts break once, so the best solution is a double replacement with a spline shaft absorbing in/out motion.
Rzeppa joints are much better. The only reason to restore the Nadellas is if you want to keep the car original.
1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened
Early 911S Registry Member #425
indeed, I am restoring the original car as I bought it
Txs Orval, would be extremely helpful if you can post pics and the Ford part number. My shop claims the part they have in mind is very expensive (100€ each).
My U joint has a grease-nipple. Does that mean it was already repaired?
member 2971 Jacques
911 March 1965
912 April 1965
911 May 1965
964 RS clone (one of many)
964 Targa original Dutch police car (one of 45)
964 Turbo 3.6 (one of 1450)
993 S Vesuvio (one of 250)
Hi I'd talk to
http://elbe-gmbh.de/
Cheers
Uli
Danke Uli!
First thing tomorrow morning. Did you just find it or do you have experience with them with Nadella axles?
Txs, Jacques
member 2971 Jacques
911 March 1965
912 April 1965
911 May 1965
964 RS clone (one of many)
964 Targa original Dutch police car (one of 45)
964 Turbo 3.6 (one of 1450)
993 S Vesuvio (one of 250)
By the way, how can you be member 2988 whereas you joined 3 years earlier than I did??
member 2971 Jacques
911 March 1965
912 April 1965
911 May 1965
964 RS clone (one of many)
964 Targa original Dutch police car (one of 45)
964 Turbo 3.6 (one of 1450)
993 S Vesuvio (one of 250)
Salut Jaques,
Not with nadella axles, but they've done shortening and balancing driveshafts for 4 to 5 speed conversions of BMW 2002s for me and friends as well as custom driveshafts when a friend had a bit too much torque. Apart from one occation where something with balancing went wrong never heard anything but strong recommendations.
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