Greetings,
Can someone kindly tell me what is the brand/type of the distributor in the pic below ? I would like tot switch from points to electronic, need to know the details.
It is installed on a 2.4T engine, and probably original.
![]()
Greetings,
Can someone kindly tell me what is the brand/type of the distributor in the pic below ? I would like tot switch from points to electronic, need to know the details.
It is installed on a 2.4T engine, and probably original.
![]()
O-G 26 - Early911S 2407
Bosch 0 231 169 008
I believe that there were three different distributors used on the 2.4T depending on the age of the car.
The original early distributor was 0 231 169 003, followed by 0 213 169 008 and finally 0 231 184 001
I think that the last dizzy was used with early K Jetronic Fuel Systems.
They will all use the same contact breakers and if you are using a 3 pin HKZ I would generally just use genuine Bosch points and not switch to an 'Ignitor' type of system as they can fail with no warning.
These early Bosch distributors do have some small issues with the internal design, the most common involving a broken 'sliding plate'.
If these brittle 'shellac' plates crack they can cause the advance curve to operate incorrectly as they can prevent the advance/retard from operating smoothly and this can result in a 'stumble'
They are relatively easy to restore and parts are readily available.
Vacuum cans can be either replaced or refurbished if they are not working correctly.
The can has an effect on idle as it makes the engine run at around 5 degrees ATDC and has around a 10 degree operating range.
Last edited by chris_seven; 04-30-2018 at 05:13 AM.
Thank you Chris. It happens the engine is "stumbling" above 3500/4000 rpms, feels like a advance issue, while the car has been sitting outside on wet/raining weather.
If parked dry, it does not happen at all. Therefore I suspect the distributor head being humid and points too.
Olivier, I will have a look and that might be a valid upgrade. Thanks
Cheers
X
Restoring these distributors is normally quite straightforward.
The internal sliding plate is available, the vacuum cans are easy to find as are the advance springs.
If you want to maintain original appearance then it would be simple to disable the advance mechanism and fit a 'programmable' CDI (HKZ) box.
ELF Ignitions in Germany can supply a suitable unit as can Classic Retrofit from the UK and we have just commissioned a prototype unit that we are just starting to test.
We can build the electronics into an original Bosch casting but haven't solved where to fit the USB connector as yet but ELF and Classic Retrofit already have done this.
![]()
Ditto.
Xavier, you might check the 123 distributor out, uses a standard coil and reasonably priced. I've installed two of them, one on my wife's '68 T and one in a '68 280SL. Easy tuning, both cars run great and no more messing with points. The 911 was prone to fouling plugs but not anymore.
Russ
ESR # 1537
'62 356S Notchback Hotrod
'67 S Das Geburtstagsgeschenk
'68 T Targa Sportomatic
'68 L SW Targa Sportomatic
'70 914/6 GT
The standard 123 Unit which uses the 'preset' advance curves and the internal switches will work with early cars fitted with simple 'Kettering' ignitions systems .
The basic model isn't compatible with with an HKZ box and you will need to use the 123'Tune' model which programmes from a USB if you have a 3-pin CDI.
The symptom you describe sounds more like spark plug wires arcing thru weak insulation when everything is wet.
Early S Registry member #90
R Gruppe member #138
Fort Worth Tx.