High Compression 2.4 S Motors

[Mr9146]

HP estimates are all a bunch of smoke and mirrors ... adding forced induction is the only way to get big numbers from a little motor. If you want big horsepower and torque numbers, build a big displacement motor.

I think people focus too much on numbers and not enough on function and experience - which is a lot of what these early cars are all about. If you want to build a GREAT motor that makes good, reliable power, happily revs to the moon, and is a complete gas to drive, build the 2.4S stroker ... that's S pistons and S cams. I would say go MFI if you want ultimate throttle response, but carbs a set of well-sorted dual webbers are nothing to scoff at.

[Chuck Miller]

I agree with Marco…

Who cares about the numbers? … It's the useable power - and how you use it

ALMOST DONE WITH THE BREAK-IN !!!!

Will be doin the second valve adjust and oil change this Sunday…

No more of this only up to 6000 rpm crap!!!

Now we'll see just how much useable power this new 9.5 RS rebuild has…

Numbers? … who cares… let's drive!!!!!!!!!!!

See all you local lads next weekend...

Cheers,

[yopurp]

Mr914-6,

I'm relieved to hear you are running a CR over 10, with MFI, on CA gas w/no problems. I'm assuming single plugs?

I've been hearing for the last year that I need twin-plugs to run the higher compression (2.2S pistons in my 2.4S). I did the machine work during the rebuild, but have held off on the actual twin ignition set up to see whether I really needed it or not. Sounds like maybe not NEED so much as WOULD BE REALLY COOL??? Is that your experience?

[yopurp]

Chuck,

We must have posted over each other. I'm stoked your car is back and running. I'm also frustrated you beat mine (but pleasantly surpised). Hope to see 1100's little brother in 2004.

[Chuck Miller]

That would be great Chris...

#1099 from SoCal

[Mr9146]

Chris,

Twing plugs are a must if you want to dial in a buttload of timing ... otherwise, you won't have a problem.

There are some rare occasions that I get detonation in high gear when I roll the throttle on too quickly at, say, 65 mph - it depends on altitude and air temperature; but that's a problem that's easily solved by giving it wide open throttle for a second or two until the revs pick up enough. I don't know ... I guess I've just learned to drive around the places where I suspect the motor would detonate.

I think a high compression 2.7S is in my near future, then I definitely won't have any problems as even a conservative amount of timing would be more than adequate to motivate my 2000 pound car.

As added insurance, I'm still trying to get my dad to donate his 2.8RSR motor to my cause

[yopurp]

Chuck,

Did I miss some pics of your engine somewhere? I wanted to see how the red dye thing worked out on the shroud.

914-6,
Thanks for the info. I'm hoping I don't have to 'drive around' potential detonation. If so, that would be enough for me to step up to the cost of the electronics sooner than later. I'm still on the fence on whether to find a 12 plug dist and stay period, or just upgrade to a Pertronix system. The costs look similar, but maint on the Pertronix would be cheaper down the line. I just love the look of a 12Plug Dist in my engine bay.

[Chuck Miller]

[69Sman]

For what it's worth, I run 91 all the time in my hi-compression (10.25-1) 356 SC engine with Shasta P&C's and it just puurrrrrssss....!

[Mr9146]

Let me stress the fact that detonation in my motor occurs when I'm too lazy to downshift, or on really really really hot So. Cal day. I've just learned to avoid cetain spots in the rev band on certain days or in certain circumstances - that's what I meant when I said "drive around" the detonation.

Usually the detonation only occurs when I'm lugging the Conejo grade in 5th when I should be in 4th. Laziness .... pure and simple.