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Yes they can. Anything with the original style damper inserts can be rebuilt pretty easily. Even if the parts aren't available (the only parts you should need are seals) from the usual automobile vendors, you will very likely find them at McMaster-Carr.Quote:
Originally Posted by blue72s
Thanks .
Hi Guys - I've been tackling this job today using the Koni 86 1638 as mentioned in the OP.
The kit I received, in addition to the 'Michelin Man' rubber bump stop also came with two smaller rubber (same diameter, lower profile) pieces and a metal tube that I think is designed to fit the inside diameter (and length) of these two peices.
The hieroglyphic instructions seem to imply that one of these is fitted between the top of the dust cover at the top of the damper tunnel and the other is fitted at the top of the shock mount in the frunk.
It looks to me that these new pieces are supposed to replace what I have in position at present - in short a highly compressed/ flattened rubber stop at the top of the shock tunnel and a similarly flattened stop on the frunk-side.
At this stage, I've stopped short of trying to lever out these pieces (they are in there really tight anyway) so I've re-installed the new damper leaving the original rubber pieces in place.
I thus have some leftover parts and a gut feeling that the car will ride lower than intended by virtue of the difference in height between the old and new rubbers (at least 5-10mm).
So, I note that there was no discussion of replacing the rubbers at the top mount in the OP - was this done or am I on the wrong track?
Cheers
car, year, and pictures would help
welcome
Good afternoon gents,
I wonder if any of you would have some insights on the attached picture. Car is a 1976 911S, 2.7. Black cartridges coming out are Boge, yellows are adjustable Koni’s I got from Pelican Parts. The overall length from the bottom-most part of the cartridge to the top of thread/nut is exactly the same, but you’ll notice the bottom of the Koni has a protrusion. I suspect this is fine, but thought I would ask if anyone had dealt with this before.Attachment 603103
For fear of the 'new' sport shock insert lack of seating at the bottom of my original Early Koni strut at total extension/rebound; I had a couple of ID/OD Delrin bushings machined that fit on the 'protrusion' and within the tube ID at bottom of the the strut ... both snug fit at about 3/4" high...
Thanks for the reply Chuck. Smart idea to spread the load. Do you know if this is a must have according to Koni? I assume it isn’t, otherwise they would make those available… Will give their tech support a call tmw and see what they have to say (if I can talk to the right person)…
Closure: spoke with Koni tech support and they said the spacer is welded on to match factory overall length. Good to install as-is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Granger968
Ran into a snag…
I was torquing the nut on top of the front strut last night, holding the large “washer” plate with a c wrench to keep the assembly from rotating. Torque was going up nicely on the torque wrench but at around 30 ft-lbs (spec is 54-55 ft. lbs), torque went back to zero. Tried the other side and same happened. I suspect the “tab” on the inner diameter of the washer (which slides in the shock shaft slot) sheared off. Unable to tighten or loose it now.
1 - Any ideas on why this happened?
2 - any ideas on removing the nut now?
** I think I found my issue… car wasn’t on the ground when I tried to torque everything. Will report back. **
Update: I tried to remove the nut with the car on the lift and on the ground, to no avail. The nut is still stuck on (remember it was partially torqued) with the probably failed washer (the big one, small one looks fine).
Any idea how to take this out? I’m stomped at the moment…