I have two small questions (rear view mirror and door handles)

[Vintage Racer]

It's a 1969 911T. The rear view mirror fell off the window. It just lost it's factory mount. What is the best solution to fix it?

I have two door handles that must have lost the screw that held them to the winding assembly. They need this piece (a screw or other nut) that holds them to the door. Suggestions?

One more request: The car has a period correct rollbar. There are no seatbelts. The rollbar has no provision (a middle bar) to affix a shoulder harness assembly. I'd like to add the middle bar.

I'll post pictures soon when the weather co-operates with outside pictures.

Thanks,
Doc

[raspritz]

Any auto parts store will sell you a new double-sided rear-view mirror mounting pad. Scrape off the old, apply the new, and you are fixed in two minutes. But they are really sticky, so make sure of exact placement before you start.

And, as may already know given your handle, your “period-correct” rollbar may not meet current requirements of your favorite race sanctioning organization (e.g. PCA Club Racing) no matter what you do to it.

Rich

[Vintage Racer]

Any auto parts store will sell you a new double-sided rear-view mirror mounting pad. Scrape off the old, apply the new, and you are fixed in two minutes. But they are really sticky, so make sure of exact placement before you start.

I was wondering if one product was a better one? Is Pelican OK?

And, as may already know given your handle, your “period-correct” rollbar may not meet current requirements of your favorite race sanctioning organization (e.g. PCA Club Racing) no matter what you do to it.

Rich,
I was not asking about racing rules. I was asking about building a safe street Porsche 911. I've seen some designs that add to the basic
rollbar of 1969. It's like a upside down U.

I am thinking a new bar installed and/or welded in that will accept a harness system for the shoulder harness?

I am thinking a new seat belt location (there is no stock seat belt) where the stock body has a strong location to work with?

I am modifying a fast street car. Pictures to follow.

[Vintage Racer]

I've solved most of the problems myself.

I found a few things from Pelican Parts with free shipping.

I found other smaller parts in my garage parts bin. The car is almost finished.

[a911s]

Hint: Check where you can place the inside mirror with the sun visors down. Mark that area with an outline box made of tape. Have a friend place the mirror level while you watch from outside in front to direct.

[Jim Breazeale]

Hint: Check where you can place the inside mirror with the sun visors down. Mark that area with an outline box made of tape. Have a friend place the mirror level while you watch from outside in front to direct.

That is how I do it too. I position the mirror using the visors for a guide
Once I have done that I have a a second person draw an outline of the
Mirror mount on the outside of the glass with a magic marker. Do be
Aware that the 2 sided tape has 2 different compounds. Usually the
Brightly colored side goes against the glass. Also remove the mirror stalk
From the base and just install the base. By itself having a second person applying
An equal amount of pressure. From the outside when u press the base to the w/s
Leave the base on the glass for a day or 2 before reattaching the rest of the mirror.
Expect to repeat this process again in the not too distant future.

Regards

Jim

[Jim Breazeale]

By the way, Doc
I'm not a fan of roll bars in street cars for all the reasons you already know

Jim

[Phil Planck]

When I bought my 69, the mirror was loose and vibrated while driving. The small brass screw was stripped as I recall. Has to tap for next larger size. So, be careful with that screw.

[Vintage Racer]

..I'm not a fan of roll bars in street cars for all the reasons you already know.

I understand. I may survive the crash, but my head may slam against the rollbar in an incident. I am working of this. It's bolted in late 60's early 70's style.

BTW, the rear view mirror works wonderfully. Pelican stuff. Thanks. New windshield wipers.

My memory is that wheel torque of these early wheels is around 70 ft/lbs? It was around 8 quarts of 10w40? Say 6 qts first then check and add until just below the marks? All with a warm engine.

I looked and found specs for my old 1973 on intake/exhaust clearances. Same or different? I think the same?

I drove it up the mountains this week. It performed with flawless precision:





Many thanks guys.

Vintage Seats with the bar...I'll probably work on it for another year or so.

[Gumby]

WOW..nice!


BTY...lug nut torque is 96 lbs,
Oil capcity is 10.5 in my 73 without a cooler, my 86 is 11.5 with a cooler, check level with warm running engine.
No 10w40! 20w50 Brad Pen only