Heel and toeing

[NorthernThrux]

That was going to be the question of mine. I expect that the engine moves a bit under acceleration and braking and so you's want a bit of slop in the line. But I'm guessing a mm gap between the pin and the throttle rod oval ring is good?

Hope to poke around this weekend if my shingles vaccine response is modest. Sucks getting to an age where you need to get all these old man vaccines!! Porsche didn't make it easy to get into the footwell, did they?

Ravi

[Haasman]

Ravi- Thought that this would be a good time to check the pivot bushings as well.

(Off of topic, I got the flu & shingles shots on the same day. And have to go back for the second shingles shot. Wasn't going to bother until I ran into a neighbor who just got shingles and he absolutely convinced me to get 'em. His description of going through shingles sound horrible).

This weekend I will dive into the foot well pedal assembly to check all there, then start working back. I do have slop and I am thinking it is from the pivot you posted above to the connection on top of the motor. OK and the easiest to adjust as well .....LOL

[frederik]

I found it reasonably comfortable to lie down on the seat bottom with your legs out the door and your head in the footwell. At least you can see and reach everything easily this way. I'm actually looking forward to getting it right on my car as well now.

(Earlier I said that the diagonal rod can be adjusted at the bottom and top but this is of course not true, only at the top.)

[NorthernThrux]

I started in the engine compartment this morning and solved the problem. The ballcup that engages with the throttle cross-bar ball was about 7 mm longer than you would want, pushing the throttle rod oval by the transmission bellcrank back as pictured in my original post. So I popped the engine compartment rod off and shortened the ballcup connections at both ends (3 mm each end, you can see the threads on the one at the throttle cross-bar in the 2nd pic before shortening) and left just a mm of slack at the transmission bellcrank.

Works great. Instantaneous response to pedal, though I now have to slide the throttle lever collar towards the front a bit in the tunnel because the revs are too high at full throttle handle extension (5500 rpm). Or just not raise it as much.

Pedal cluster was all nicely rebuilt and there was nothing bent and there weren’t enough turns left in the ballcups to suck up those 7 mm. Engine was the easy place to deal with it.

Pedal heights look very similar to what Chris P posted earlier in this thread. And fully depressed accelerator pedal to the nylon stop just hits the mfi stop. So perfect!