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Thread: Darn..seal shot...and after only 30 years!

  1. #1

    Darn..seal shot...and after only 30 years!

    Any tips on replacement of the engine lid seal would be greatly appreciated. This is the roughly 1 1/2" wide rubber seal closest to to the license plate. Crossing my fingers that I won't have to remove the muffler and then the license plate panel in order to do this replacement.

  2. #2
    Rick Cabell

    rear lid seal

    Are you talking about the seal that is like a little duck tail with the cutouts for the plate lights that is on the top of the panel,or the one that is between the top of the LP panel and the body?

  3. #3


    if it is the one i'm thinking, you should only have to remove the license panel. slip it in the groove and replace the panel.

  4. #4

    Re: seal

    Rick, you're right..the one closest to the license plate. But, if I'm going to remove the license panel, maybe replace both? Have to admit, the license panel has never been off the car..don't have a clue how to proceed. Should I also remove the muffler to make it go easier? The bumperettes? Thanks for the advice.

  5. #5
    Rick Cabell

    rubber seal

    Both seals are equal distance from the licence plate. I am going to guess that it's the rubber flap that looks like a mini duck tail.
    You don't have to remove anything. The new rubber will have a round lip on the back side. This fits in what skate boarders call a half pipe. It's on the top edge spot welded to the panel. I have a plastic wedge shaped tool that windshield installers use to do glass jobs. I ground a sharp edge on one end and push the round bead in to half pipe. The trick is to not crack the paint on the half pipe when pushing the new gasket in. I little silicon helps also. Start on on end and work your way across.
    It's one of those things where it's easier said than done. If you want to drive 3000 miles across the country, I'll put in on in about 5 minutes,for free. When ya commin??

  6. #6

    Re: rubber seal

    Rick? DAMN i wish you were my neighbor. The guy 1/2 mile down the road, who is completely into a '66 'Vette coupe, and his Bel Air, well? Not much help.... Me? I just figure things out the best I can.

  7. #7

    Rubber Strip Replacement

    I recently replaced that little rubber strip (mini ducktail with two grooves for license plate lights on an newly painted "S"...hence my anal procedure.

    There is no need to remove the license plate, bumperettes, or your muffler.
    Step 1
    Simple remove the existing rubber strip from the "track" and throughly clean the groove with soap, water and a bit of elbow greese. You can use paint thinner as well so long as you (A) go easy on the amount (I used a cotton swab to clean the inside of the rail) and (B) clean everything with soap and water when finished.

    Step 2
    Next, cut the rubber to the exact size of your opening. Leave a little extra to accomodate for shrinkage (roughly 2-3 mm per side). Work the rubber strip into the thin groove to make sure everything fits ok and that the license plate openings are correctly alighined. Mark the 2-3mm excess as well so that you can position later.

    Step 3
    Place the rubber strip on a board with the underside facing up. Next, find a cap or very small cup. Using 3M adhesive, spray pool into you container. Now, using a cotton swab, apply a generous amount of the liquified 3M glue to the roundish area on the underside of the rubber strip. Let sit 1-3 minutes

    Step 4
    Refill the cap/container with 3M spray. Take a new cotton swab and apply a generous amount of glue into the rigde where the rubber will be seated. Let sit 1-3 minutes

    Step 5
    With rubber strip upright, begin on one side and work the rubber strip into the groove using the marking as reference points. Let sit for 45 minutes with trunk-lid open so that there is no pressure on the rubber gasket.

    Step 6
    Open fine microbrew of your choice and admire your work

  8. #8

    Re: Rubber Strip Replacement

    Thanks darkstar...I think I'll be trying your method first. Heck, I can always get out the tools if it doesn't go easily, right? I always get nervous about work on the baby..the paint is now 3 decades old. So I figure the less wrench use, the better.

  9. #9

    Re: Rubber Strip Replacement

    Well, actually Rick's method...I don't see why I'd need any cement. I mean, once the "ducktail" seal is in there, how could it slide out on it's own? Otherwise, think I understand the technique you both suggest...thanks again.

  10. #10
    Kurt V

    Re: Rubber Strip Replacement

    When I replaced mine on my 72E I didn't glue it in. I also didn't remove the license plate panel. For lubricant I just used some silicon grease. Worked just fine.

    Kurt V

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