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Thread: Motor mount torque?

  1. #1

    Motor mount torque?

    Can anyone give me the torque specs for the four large motor mount bolts? I'm replacing my worn motor mounts with some Club Sport mounts and reversing the washers from ) ( to ( ) arrangement.


  2. #2
    Roland Kunz



    Not sure witch one, but:

    M10 studs on the engine case to the motormountcarrier and to the bellhousing ( Those normaly with 15 mm nuts ) are at 45-50 Nm.

    The enginecarrierbolts are M12 x1,5 ( fine pitch ) have a 19 mm head and get 70-75 Nm.


  3. #3

    Re: torque

    Thanks Roland!


  4. #4

    Re: torque

    I asked my mechanic this same question one time about torquing these bolts, and he looked at me kinda cockeyed, raised his hand as if holding a gun, and went "WWRRRPPPP! WWRRPPP!", doing his best imitation of an impact wrench sound. :lol:


  5. #5

    Engine bolts

    A question: do you use anti-seize to help get them back loose?

  6. #6
    Roland Kunz

    Brrr Brrr


    I know, this is a thing hard to explain, but most mechanics have a built in "torque sensing" and most bolts on car applications are very tolerant to misstorqueing
    Acording to DIN the torque specs are for slight oiled and clean threads. I use a Molycote graphite grease or Optimal HT. I´m not a friend from cooper grease as cooper is a active electric element.

    On 74 on engine carriers Porsche cut the threads in the carrier and deletet the seperate nut. Those can be very iky if sized and lead to bend or riped of carrier ends.
    If you can´t lose the outher screws then just lose the inner screws and remove the carrier when the engine is out and you have better access to it
    Using antisize is a friendly touch for the next mechanic working on the car. Could be me again and when we bolt up engines the bolts might not be touched the next 20 years. Anti size is also a friendly move to the car owner as it can save him some additional minutes and spare parts on the next job.

    You can use a impact wrench if you have a "feeling". Good 1/2"l Impactwrenches can torque up to 30 NM with will not stretch that bolt but stripe the threads.
    On the rearcarrier you just dump nut & bolt and use new parts. On the front transmission carrier where the bolt sits in the torsion tube you "made" your day.

    Most torque wrenches have a bleed screw to preadust the maximum torque. On Chigago Pneumatic and a 9 bar air suppley the middle position tourqes around 6-7 NM.

    My working methode is always:

    Aligne the trany and use a dorn to line up one hole.
    Set the screw from hand and turn it up several threads.
    Aligne the oppesite side and turn up the screw several threads. Mostly if you wigle a bit its a easy job.
    If not your engine is still to low and the angle will avoid line up. Then I turn the screws up with a wrench and start to insert the rear screws, don´t forget the big cuped washer between carrier and engine rubber mount.
    Mostly you can turn the nuts up by hand.

    After the engine "hangs" the car goes up and gets all the other parts from the underside. After I torqed down the half shaft bolts ( And with a color dot as break lose indicator ) I just adjust the Manoskope wrench to 70 NM and torque down the bolts on the trany mount, then the car gets set on his tires and I torque down the rear engine carrier. Maybe this costs 5 minutes more time then the vrrr vrrr divison but i can sleep better and a striped bolt & nut is someting around 5$, striped threads on the front carrier lead to new 20$ bolts and a heli coil thread repair. Each M12 x 1,5 x 30 mm insert runs at 15$ and you need some 30 minutes to repair one thread, 45 for both. So if I compare the saved minutes to the trouble........

    If you use correct handtools and you have some routine into bolting you will always tourqe within specs even without a tourqe wrench. The tools are designed from there lever size and the rest is "feeling".So you mustn´t be a slave to tourqe specs and use a torque meter for everything. Most amateure mechanics don´t understand the prinziples and try to apply the "brake lose" force on the rebolting witch is far beyound needed and can lead to failures.


  7. #7
    Roland Kunz



    Error edit:

    On Chigago Pneumatic and a 9 bar air suppley the middle position tourqes around 60-70 NM.


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