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Thread: I lowered my front and now it's to stiff

  1. #1

    I lowered my front and now it's too stiff

    I lowered the front of my 911 for auto crossing. Looks cool too. Anyway, I might have lowered it too much because it rides like it has no shocks. I've seen other 911's as low as mine on the street and at the track and they are not a stiff as my car. Is it because I have Koni shocks?




  2. #2
    It takes more than shocks to get the car to ride right. Try 26mm torsion bars in the rear and 21mm torsion bars on the front I think it is a good place to start. There are may other things you can do but their will be some compromise, so you need to decide what is the most important. My car is about as low as you want to get and rides and handles great. I also prefer Bilstien shocks over Koni's.
    Hope this helps.


  3. #3
    Moderator Chuck Miller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Reseda, CA.
    Roger's right Markus,

    It might look cool however there must be some compliance in your suspension for it to work!


    - You’re not using the hydraulics of your shocks anymore… you're are on the bump rubbers and your killing them slowly (maybe not so slowly)

    - You’re putting undo stress on the front of an already old chassis.

    - And… if the above isn’t the right motivation… YOU’LL PROBABLY GO FASTER IN YOUR NEXT AUTO-X WITH A LITTLE MORE SUSPENSION!

    Hope this helps,

  4. #4
    Moderator Chuck Miller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Reseda, CA.
    P.S. ... Markus, just a reminder…

    Every time you make a drastic (even not so drastic) change to your ride height you must realign your car.
    The sequence goes something like this:

    - Remove and replace all mechanical parts you want, need, and can afford …. torsion bars, tie rods, sway bars… what-ever

    - Put on the tire/wheel size combination you're going to be running.

    - Set ride height

    - Corner balance

    - Align

    If you do most any of the 4 above after you align … you have to align again…

    Hope this helps,

  5. #5
    Thanks Chuck, Thanks Roger.

    I'll put the height back to stock and I'll attempt to set it up properly.

    There's some things I know and some I don't. This is a subject I need to learn more about.

    I appreciate the input from the both of you!

    Best Regards,


  6. #6
    Happy to help,

    If you want some suggestions, email or call me and I'll try to give you the best way to go for what you trying to achive.

    Best regards,


  7. #7
    Goldmember ttweed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    La Jolla, CA
    Originally posted by Chuck Miller
    you're are on the bump rubbers and your killing them slowly (maybe not so slowly)
    Chuck is right, when you hit the bump rubbers, your spring rates quickly go up to infinity, which makes for some evil handling. But if I recall correctly, you can cut the bump stops down in the Konis when you lower the car, no?

    Of course the best thing to do is raise the spindles, like the RSR struts, so you can have the low ride height AND suspension travel.

    Tom Tweed
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  8. #8
    Senior Member Neunelfer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Sandy, Utah


    Check with Jason at Paragon but I believe he recommends taking a notch off the bump stops if you're going to lower the car.

    With M-Struts I ran European ride height up front with no problems... liked the look as well. That should be 25.5" to the fender lip. It's basically what the suspension was designed for.

    I'm now using Koni's with the Koni A-Strut but I've had the spindle raised by 18mm (.71 inches). By raising the spindle you can effectively lower the car and keep the suspension travel. Don't raise them any more that 18mm with 15" rims (I'm using 15x7 & 8's). It's not the quick and easy way but it sure is fun...

    And I second, third and fourth the alignment story.
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