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Thread: mech. inj. popping

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
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    Punta Gorda Florida
    Posts
    63

    Question mech. inj. popping

    Hi all, have freshly rebuilt 2.7 rs motor and mechanical injection pump by pacific and the throttle bodies by eurometrics car pops though the intake stacks up to 3100 rpms untill warm (180-190 degrees )then seems to run fine. is there anything I can do about the popping. have the same setup on my 72s and no
    popping at all at any temp. injection also rebuilt the same way by the same companies, the only difference is the 72 has the complete flapper box and air filter housing the carrera has K&H filters and water sheilds.Did I just answere my own question? Any suggestions would be appreciated
    1973 E Targa 9113210927 metallic green
    1973 S coupe 9113300738 light Ivory
    2007 Cayman S daily driver
    member # 270

  2. #2
    Are your throttle bodies synced and do you have any leaks in the stacks (between the throttle bodies and stacks)? That reduces the poping by a fair amount.
    Tim
    1973 T

  3. #3
    This is a good article that may be of assistance. When they are running right they are sweet. Popping is something I've experienced when cold or when a car has not run in a while. I believe it's just an adjustment or two to make it right. Good luck with the project.


    http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...I_Lee_Rice.pdf
    "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." - Dr. Seuss
    "Experience is the mother of wisdom" - idiom
    "Let them that don't want none, have memories of not gettin' any"- Brother Dave Gardner

    Early S Registry #235
    rgruppe #111

  4. #4
    Remember that MFI is very touchy ... small changes like air filters will throw the system out of whack completely. Also, exhaust changes will have a drastic effect on performance - free flowing headers i.e. non-factory stuff will freak out an MFI car ... they just love backpressure. You might check the air bleeds on the stacks, or the rack might be too lean on the rich/lean on the idle circurt. It's easier to richen up/lean out the main circuit from the back of the pump under the "button" than to try and richen/lean just the idle circut - doing the main will, by default, effect the idle.

    Mine used to do this popping as well, but I richened up the circuit and all was kosher and well. Best of luck to ya.

    By the way, 3100 is the point of transition between the idle and main circuits.
    -Marco
    SReg. #778 OGrp: #8 RGrp: #---
    TLG Auto: Website
    Searching for engine #907495 and gearbox 902/1 #229687

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