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Thread: Brake Bleeding snafu - need help!

  1. #1

    Brake Bleeding snafu - need help!

    Greetings to all! This is my standard operating procedure - Saturday night and I'm stuck on another DIY project. We've all been there before, right?

    I rebuilt my front calipers this weekend and replaced the rotors and pads. Now when I bleed the front brakes, I can't get rid of the mushy pedal feel. I've pumped each side probably a dozen times, tapped the calipers with rubber mallet, etc. But I still have a mushy pedal.

    Here's my question: Is it possible that I need to bleed the rear calipers as well even though I didn't even touch my rear brakes? Could air possibly have worked itsway into those lines as well? Sounds unlikely to me, but I figured I should ask.

    FYI, I also had the brake pedal jimmied down with a 2x4 while I did my work. Any pointers for getting my firm pedal back? Thanks to all
    2015 McLaren 650S spider
    2001 Ferrari 550
    2010 Ariel Atom 3
    1979 Ferrari 308gtb

    Paid-up Registry Member & proud of it!!

  2. #2
    I totally feel for you man. I don't know how many projects I have started, and run into some problem that requires at least another day to solve.

    As for mushy brake, bleeding all four corners would be an easy and fairly quick way to check if you have air in rear lines.

    Also, although I've never done this, you may have to bench bleed each caliper before installing. There are instances in which bench bleeding is the only way to get all the air out. Unfortunately, I don't know how to bench bleed.

    Good luck!
    Early 911S Registry #472
    1968 S - #477
    Mostly Stock

  3. #3
    How far did you press the brake pedal? If you went to the floor, you may have torn a seal in the piston assy. This causes brake fluid to bypass the piston during pedal application resulting in low pressure to the system. If bleeding the system using any of the popular methods doesn't firm up the pedal, look at this possibility.

    Sherwood Lee

  4. #4
    Just pump the pedal a few times BEFORE you want to stop. It worked for my old 1950 Ford...most of the time
    Paul D. Early S Registry #8 - Cyclops Minister of West Coast Affairs
    "Now, to put a water-cooled engine in the rear and to have the radiator in the front, that's not very intelligent." -Ferry Porsche (PANO, Oct. 1973)

  5. #5
    My pedal has firmed up about 3-fold after the last round of bleeding. Still not quite where I want it to be, but I figure I'll try to drive the car about 50 miles and then re-bleed.

    Like Paul says, after the second pump they work fine.
    2015 McLaren 650S spider
    2001 Ferrari 550
    2010 Ariel Atom 3
    1979 Ferrari 308gtb

    Paid-up Registry Member & proud of it!!

  6. #6
    Like Sherwood says,,,,, bleeding breaks by pumping the master cylinder wrecks them..... don't do it...... Get yourself a pressure bleeder from some reputable company ( snap-on etc.) if you have the extra cash....or borrow one... Its a tool you'd wish you allways had.... and you'll eliminate all air in the system...... plus bleeding breaks becomes a 5 min job all by yourself....


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