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Thread: Calling experts, identify this early oil line

  1. #1

    Calling experts, identify this early oil line

    Hi guys can anyone help me identify this oil line and if anyone has one available.

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    Thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member ThomasTe's Avatar
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    That is the oil return line from the oil tank to the drivers side of the crankcase. Part number will either be 901.107.720.01 for 1969-71 or 911.107.722.00 for 1973 (for cars without a front oil cooler).

    If you own the one in the pic, and if it is leaking from the hose part, the hose can be replaced.

    901.107.720.01 is NLA. Now for 1965-71, part number 901.107.331.12 is used. It is basicly a hose running on top of the case instead of under it:



    For 1973 911 cars without a front oil cooler, it is now a two-piece hose, part numbers 911.107.728.00 and 911.107.739.10:


    Thomas
    1973 911S Targa

  3. #3
    Senior Member beh911's Avatar
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    Fix it if it is simply leaking. Numerous threads on subject. Search on Brad Davis
    1969 S Coupe #761
    Early S Registry #1624

  4. #4
    Anyone have this part available

  5. #5
    Porsche, Stoddard, Sierra Madre, EBS
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

  6. #6
    It looks as though you have reusable hose fittings there. Just get some new hose from Stoddard, if I'm right.
    Tom F.
    Long Beach, CA

  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    Nov 2014
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    Port Orange, FL
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    My old, original German hoses were leaking, so I took them to a hydraulic hose place, which replaced the leaky German hose material with Aeroquip and used the germ fittings. Result: No more oil leaks -- probably from now until Hell freezes over.

  8. #8
    Senior Member
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    Garden State
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    I am in the process of replacing all of the oil lines in my friend's 1972 911T One Year Only oil system.

    Can anyone tell me the procedure for removing this hard line with the engine in the car?

    It looks like I might need to remove the driver (USA) side heat exchanger. Is there a way around this?


    Thanks!

  9. #9
    You'll need to remove the exchanger. Be careful not to break exhaust studs, or the job will really get out of hand. Don't know rusty yours are, but its best to heat the nuts with an oxy-acetylene torch.
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
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    Thank you Ed. The engine was overhauled less than 1500 miles ago and it is stored indoors so I think we'll be ok.

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