Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 39

Thread: dmaddox's 1968 911L workshop

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    217

    dmaddox's 1968 911L workshop

    Last edited by dmaddox; 04-08-2021 at 09:23 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    217
    Continuing on with the 2.0 Distributor discussion which is related in part to the hard starting issue. . .I found that I am running a 70/71 911T distributor. In addition the spark plugs were a Bosch 9 and likely way too hot for the car.

    I knew I wanted to attack both fuel and spark - and with the wrong dizzy in place, I put out an ad looking for a 1968 cast iron "001" distributor. (Thank you Kjell). This is the correct distributor that would have come with the 911L, a 0-231-159-001.

    After receiving the used 001 (in great shape), I did a light disassembly to inspect and clean:

    Name:  IMG_7346.jpg
Views: 818
Size:  72.1 KB

    Name:  IMG_7341.jpg
Views: 822
Size:  60.0 KB

    Admittedly I love the logo/tag on here and the simplicity of the design. I inspected the internals, all was clean and moving freely. So I cleaned and lightly lubed with 3 in 1 oil, including the felt tab (even though I am running pertronix not points) and the advance setup and lower internals.

    Name:  IMG_7344.jpg
Views: 820
Size:  68.6 KB

    Name:  IMG_7343.jpg
Views: 830
Size:  73.2 KB

    After cleaning everything I used a two-part high temp engine paint (Eastwood) in satin black.

    Name:  IMG_7350.jpg
Views: 823
Size:  84.3 KB

    I then ordered from various suppliers, a correct cap, a 7100rpm rotor, a new oem shaft gasket and a NOS Pertronix setup.

    Name:  IMG_7351.jpg
Views: 829
Size:  101.4 KB

    New hardware in the mounting tab as well.

    After I installed the electronic ignition, I decided to put shrink tubing on the red/black wires to make it look a little more oem and clean on installation.

    Name:  IMG_7352.jpg
Views: 822
Size:  70.8 KB

    Here is the ignition setup, ready to be installed.

    Name:  IMG_7354.jpg
Views: 821
Size:  106.7 KB

    Name:  IMG_7348.jpg
Views: 809
Size:  90.6 KB

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    217
    Question for you guys. With Permatune and Pertronix, do I need a ballast resistor? I ordered a 1968 Bosch coil (As pictured) and it says on the green tag to use a 0.9ohm ballast resistor. I don't see one currently on my car (there is a solid black bosch 12v coil currently).

    Thoughts? I may not even need a ballast resistor - I found this in the Bosch documentation - but I don't want to ruin anything: "In case of breaker-triggered ignition system, use only with ballast resistor", and with permatune and pertronix, I should be able to just roll without a ballast resistor.
    Last edited by dmaddox; 02-17-2021 at 07:10 PM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    217
    I spoke with Permatune today - a great chat with excellent customer service. Apparently, the "Made in Brazil" Bosch coils cause a lot of issues with the Permatune, and it is a non-returnable part, so if any of you need the above pictured Bosch coil, still in the box, PM me.

    So, the other recommendations (none of which require a ballast) are BERU, made in Germany Bosch coil, or the Permatune coil. I have some time to research this further, but if you are in this situation - Permatune's do not require a ballast, even if the coil asks for it, because the voltage being sent to the coil comes from the Permatue module, not direct to the coil. This explains why my car didn't have a ballast resister.

    Making some progress here.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    217
    On other news - while I sort out the hard starting issue - I decided to change the sugar scoops to a more euro look. I am usually a purist at heart, and rarely "modify" any vehicle, including the several Toyota Land Cruisers I have restored down to the correct JIS hardware, tool kits, etc..

    However, with my car already not the original color, the motor a couple hundred numbers off the original (however still an "L" motor and correct date) as well as a few modifications to the exterior (sill plates, front bumper guards, etc..) I decided to have a bit of fun that I thought would, if anything, increase the value and appeal of the car. Your opinions valued!

    Being new to Porsche, I admittedly jumped into this without lengthy research - and in doing so, found out that what I'd really like is a 1966 or 67 coupe (obviously a 67S would be the pinnacle, but $$$$). I love the green gauges, the headlights, and other tidbits.

    Don't get me wrong I am in love with this 911L. A good friend on the forum made a suggestion to me that I thought was really cool. Why not give your car a European 1968 look, similar to the 68S? I dug into it more, researched a bit and fell in love with the look. For me, it was the best of both worlds.

    Can I just add that the people I have worked with on this forum have been truly cool. I'm sure there are bad eggs out there, but seriously you guys have been welcoming, helpful and kind.

    The same member hooked me up with some euro dual bulb H1's with 007 lenses. I took to them with vigor to restore them. Apparently these headlights would have been included on European delivered 1968 911S's.

    Overall they were in good shape, but the glass was slightly pitted and needed to be cleaned and polished.

    Name:  IMG_6872.jpg
Views: 761
Size:  91.4 KB

    Name:  IMG_6874.jpg
Views: 750
Size:  79.1 KB

    Name:  IMG_6873.jpg
Views: 747
Size:  87.5 KB

    After inspecting and cleaning the adjusters and so forth (Luckily the reflectors were in good shape, not perfect but in good shape) I took to polishing the lenses:

    Name:  IMG_6883.jpg
Views: 746
Size:  90.3 KB

    As you can see, I used a Cerium Oxide glass polishing compound mixed into a paste with Meguiars "ultra cut" compound with an orbital polisher.

    I probably spent 45 min to an hour on each lens to polish the glass.

    Name:  IMG_6882.jpg
Views: 743
Size:  114.1 KB

    After polishing the glass, I also buffed and waxed inside and out, making sure not to touch the inside with any finger prints.

    I then polished and buffed with the chrome rings with a fine steel wool before reassembly.

    Last, I used a silver caliper paint I had on the shelf after sanding and prepping the inner housings. (Not that headlights get that hot, but I chose the paint because the color was a spot on match and non-metallic).

    I think they turned out pretty nice. Rings are very slightly pitted/aged, but oddly, I love it - especially knowing these are originals from 1968.

    Name:  IMG_6891.jpg
Views: 745
Size:  97.0 KB

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    217
    Two other members on the forum (fist bumps again) - helped with sourcing a set of euro lamps, correct for 1968. You guys know how brittle these are, especially with 50 year old plastic lenses. So, not much I could do here but polish and clean up with new bulb holders from SMC, new bulbs and replace foam gaskets as needed. Again, I actually like the aged/patina look on some parts, it doesn't distract from my liking. I drive the car, after all.

    Name:  62983023878__3D19DD86-9F6C-47CA-A753-757AE1FDFE5E.jpg
Views: 754
Size:  108.5 KB

    Name:  IMG_6785.jpg
Views: 745
Size:  80.3 KB

    The euro-crew, working on the other headlight.

    Name:  IMG_6890.jpg
Views: 745
Size:  98.4 KB

    As you guys can also likely see, the wiring is/was cut from the plug to the bulbs. These are available, but without fussing with it, I decided to just make my own, soldering and shrink tubing the electrical.

    Name:  IMG_6893.jpg
Views: 749
Size:  115.4 KB

    After cleaning and polishing everyone, with new H1 bulbs and signal bulbs/holders. Here is a Before:

    Name:  IMG_6895.jpg
Views: 748
Size:  99.0 KB

    And after:

    Name:  IMG_6896.jpg
Views: 748
Size:  101.7 KB

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    217
    Some vanity/show-off pictures of the Euro-look:

    Name:  CEA4D003-3897-487C-B1BE-BA1345092FB8.jpg
Views: 759
Size:  178.2 KB

    Name:  IMG_6904.jpg
Views: 740
Size:  150.9 KB

    Name:  IMG_6908.jpg
Views: 760
Size:  147.3 KB

    Name:  IMG_6905.jpg
Views: 751
Size:  145.7 KB

    For those of you that receive "Panorama" magazine. How cool that this car, a 1967S was the look I was going for. Page 75:

    Name:  IMG_7359.jpg
Views: 752
Size:  99.5 KB

    Thanks for listening!

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    217
    I am working on the carbs at the moment, but in the meantime - I decided to fix two oil leaks and some bad hoses lurking behind the air cleaner.

    I have also did some research on various hoses, hose manufacturers and information and have some feedback on them.

    First off, the crankcase breather was oozing oil out the front of it (rear of the car side, the area facing you). So I ordered a gasket for the crankcase vent tube. The tube itself was also brittle, and weeping oil and out the bottom. Next, the drain line from the bottom of the airbox (you need a 7mm id line, and not the 9mmid fuel line chunk that was on there) to drain this. Finally, the thermostat was leaking a bit of oil as well, and after inspection found the rubber o-ring to be rock hard and cracked.

    Visually you can see the oily mess:

    Name:  IMG_7360.jpg
Views: 688
Size:  147.1 KB

    Note in the photo above, the various locations I mentioned leaking - in addition to the chunk of 9mmid fuel line that was too big for the air cleaner vent drain.


    I started by removing the hose, drain line and four 10mm nuts holding the crankcase vent cover:

    Name:  IMG_7369.jpg
Views: 693
Size:  145.4 KB

    Since these parts are all aluminum (including the case) I used a plastic weatherstrip tool to wedge into the breather cover to pry it up:

    Name:  IMG_7370.jpg
Views: 691
Size:  133.5 KB

    Some nice build up from the leak over the years:

    Name:  IMG_7372.jpg
Views: 690
Size:  128.8 KB

    The grimy trio removed for inspection and cleaning:

    Name:  IMG_7373.jpg
Views: 694
Size:  100.2 KB

    Pretty gross!

    Name:  IMG_7374.jpg
Views: 683
Size:  105.9 KB

    Note here, the aged (probably can't see the hairline crack in the o-ring) gasket on the thermostat:

    Name:  IMG_7375.jpg
Views: 685
Size:  79.1 KB

    When trying to remove the o-ring, it broke all apart:

    Name:  IMG_7376.jpg
Views: 689
Size:  130.5 KB

    I hit everything with parts cleaner (brake cleaner) and then thought what the heck, I'd try to dab on some of this polish. Maybe a little too bling? Oops.

    Name:  IMG_7377.jpg
Views: 691
Size:  73.5 KB

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    217
    After cleaning the cover and surfaces, I snagged new cad hardware (I know split washers are not preferred here, but there was plenty of thread to catch)

    New gasket from Stoddard:

    Name:  IMG_7379.jpg
Views: 690
Size:  125.3 KB

    I then cleaned the studs and mating surface on the block, making sure to use a solvent to remove any oil/grease from the area.

    Name:  IMG_7381.jpg
Views: 684
Size:  118.9 KB

    I am also a Toyota nut, and have restored several land cruisers. In doing so, their product called FIPG (form in place gasket) is absolutely amazing. A tad pricey for a tube, but worth every penny. I have used this stuff for years on engines and decided to use a very thin film on both sides of the cover.) I felt was necessary because the cover is actually quite porous on the underside.

    Name:  IMG_7382.jpg
Views: 684
Size:  86.8 KB

    A new OEM o-ring for the thermostat - an easy install (just coat with oil and plop it all back together.

    Name:  IMG_7388.jpg
Views: 680
Size:  67.9 KB

    Name:  IMG_7389.jpg
Views: 682
Size:  73.3 KB

    Now, something of interest. The vent breather hose from URO hose is "meh" at best. The original hose on my car was likely oem, and the replacement URO parts hose is (in my opinion) garbage in comparison. Its flimbsy, weaker, doesn't have any shape to it, the fabric wants to unravel all over, and just doesn't have the quality and structure of the oem hose. Luckily for me, I have 15 friggen feet of it. I'll use a chunk here for now, but eventually I'll swap it out, if it bothers me enough. I also snagged new OEM hose clamps.

    Name:  IMG_7390.jpg
Views: 677
Size:  105.7 KB

    Maybe you can see in that photo how wonky the hose is.

    Also, a few of our popular vendors sell the 7mm ID drain hose (fuel line) for 40+ bucks for a 1 meter section. Its made in Germany stuff, but you can get it here for 15$: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I'll update once I get that in and installed.

    For now, I have fixed the leaks as mentioned above.

    Name:  IMG_7393.jpg
Views: 672
Size:  133.2 KB

    Oh, and stay tuned on the ignition re-vamp. I set aside the Brazilian Bosch coil for the recommended coil from Permatune that will accompany the ignition I am running. I now have everything to update the ignition!

    Name:  IMG_7387.jpg
Views: 683
Size:  77.2 KB

    Cheers!

  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    81
    I recommend replacing the crush washer on the oil pressure sender if you haven't. Easy and preventative.

    I believe it's either: 900-123-116-30 (or maybe: 900-123-009-20), sorry can't remember which.
    - 1969 911T Ossi Blue #3981

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Message Board Disclaimer and Terms of Use
This is a public forum. Messages posted here can be viewed by the public. The Early 911S Registry is not responsible for messages posted in its online forums, and any message will express the views of the author and not the Early 911S Registry. Use of online forums shall constitute the agreement of the user not to post anything of religious or political content, false and defamatory, inaccurate, abusive, vulgar, hateful, harassing, obscene, profane, sexually oriented, threatening, invasive of a person's privacy, or otherwise to violate the law and the further agreement of the user to be solely responsible for and hold the Early 911S Registry harmless in the event of any claim based on their message. Any viewer who finds a message objectionable should contact us immediately by email. The Early 911S Registry has the ability to remove objectionable messages and we will make every effort to do so, within a reasonable time frame, if we determine that removal is necessary.